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アクリル板に線を引いて,カッターで強く引き溝を切る(これアクリル専用カッターです.DIY店で売っています.普通のカッターナイフは絶対に不可です.手を切ります!).
Draw
a line on the acrylic board cover paper and groove by pulling hard with
a cutter (This is a cutter specially designed for acrylic, available at
DIY stores. (This is a cutter specially designed for acrylic, You should never use an ordinary cutter knife.-- it is very dangerous!)
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溝は5〜6回力強く引いて作る.
The groove is made by pulling rapidly 5-6 times.
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裏返して,保護用紙をめくって裏の線にそって同様に溝を入れる.当木(あてぎ)を溝ぎりぎりに置くことに注意.
Remove the protective paper, and make a groove along the line on the
reverse side in the same way. Be careful to place the table just at the
edge of the groove.
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そのまま折りにくいときは図のように硬い金属などではさんで折るときれいに折れる.
If it is difficult to fold the piece as it is, fold it neatly by clamping it between two pieces of hard metal, as shown in the figure.
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接着はクランプなどを使って,隙間にアクリルサンデーを流し込む.隙間が透明になると接着剤がきれいに流れた証拠.水槽を作るのではないのでそれほど神経質になる必要はない.
Use a clamp to pour acrylic glue into the gap. When the gap becomes
transparent, it is an evidence that the adhesive has flowed cleanly. It
is not necessary to be so nervous because it is not for making an
aquarium.
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押し板やスペーサー(白)も作って,様々なサイズのセットが完成.
Various sizes of sets are completed by making push plates and spacers (white).
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薄いアクリル板(3mm)のカットMovie Part1. click start
Cutting a thin acrylic plate (3mm) Movie Part1. click start
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薄いアクリル板のカットMovie Part2. click start こういう作業では図のクランプが重宝する.はさんでいるのは2枚の厚さがとても厚いアクリル板を「やとい」(作業の補助パーツ)にしている.
Cutting a thin acrylic plate (3mm) Movie Part2. click start The clamp
shown in the figure is useful for this kind of work. Two very thick
acrylic sheets are used as "yatoi" (auxiliary parts for work).
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厚いアクリル板(5mm)のカットMovie Part3. click start
Cutting thick acrylic plate (5mm) Movie Part3. click start
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厚いアクリル板(5mm)のカットMovie Part4. click start
Cutting thick acrylic plate (5mm) Movie Part4. click start |
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アクリルケースと押し板の完成品その1.
Finished acrylic case and pressboard (1).
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アクリルケースと押し板の完成品その2.
Finished acrylic case and pressed plate (2).
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